Gel Mania

     I'm sure by now you've been at least teased with the notion that you can have salon results with the gel consumer products which are being pitched by Sally Hansen and all the rest of the consumer beauty products available in regular drugstores and consumer beauty supply outlets. They sound promising but how many women do you know, personally, that are actively doing their own gel nails and bragging about the results? None? That's what I thought. The reason could be that it's not a simple matter removing them, for one, even by the professional. It's so much easier to remove regular nail polishes that I wonder why women would bother with these products on their own once they know the inherent difficulties.

     The so-called popularity is mostly a result of over-pitching product (i.e. keep repeating the product slogans and promises over and over again and I'm sure we'll sell hundreds of these kits!) and not placing professional services in their rightful place. The following link was actually intended for professionals to use but I can tell you from my many years of professional practice that I have never learned a single process I do (and they are myriad!) by watching a video. A good part of my knowledge attained outside of beauty college has been by attending professional shows and expos and signing up for training directly from the manufacturer's representatives who are, often, a working professional just like myself.  

    

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJcN-I660QA&feature=player_detailpage

     I have discovered that following a manufacturer's precise directions gets better results than asking consumers what works on their nails- as they blunder along in amateur video land. An individual's efforts could never take the place of professional experiential, tried and true results from those who make it their business to please hundreds upon hundreds of customers. Through the years, when I have worked on new clients, their experiences in DIY sessions (that they are willing to relate) have bordered on frustration, wasted time and cleaning up the mess they make- not just on their hands but their makeshift work areas.

     Whether you're seeking an easy gel use- such as gel polish or going into actual gel veneers, which are longer-wearing and semi-permanent, you'll want to know a little bit more about what kind of product you're actually putting on your nails and why it has to be applied and removed a certain way. I do like the ease of gel application. It is odorless but not harmless because it is much more invasive than nail polish. I have found that the claim of no-chipping for modern day gels is erroneous in some cases. It depends on the state of the natural nails in question. Each person's nails are different and that is one of the reasons that I rarely diagnose a problem for a client (or potential client) without a one-on-one consultation session. If you have experienced a lot of chipping with regular polish for a period of time, gel will also chip. It's a difficult problem that can't be corrected with a different product. Often, a client has to go without using products on their nails until they're healthy again. I have a five step program for rehabilitating chip damaged nails.   

     The first gel product I worked with was veneers and extensions through Zotos Lightstrokes. They weren't completely odorless but they were pleasantly scented. As a three-coat application it imparted inner strength with outer durability and application was faster and longer-lasting than acrylics. I did this product for about five years with great success on select clients and then Zotos dropped the line entirely when consumers started buying a consumer product called Lume'.

     I humored the women that thought they could do this procedure themselves and actually tried the product only because Lightstrokes was no longer available. I discovered that Lume' was a one layer gel which peeled off readily so I quit doing gel nails entirely. Acrylic was better than this hostess party gel product that gave millions of women the idea that they could do the work of a professional on themselves. I saw a few Lume' monstrosities for about a year and then saw them no more.

     If the gel polish still seems like something you'd like to try, I will personally recommend going with CND Shellac instead at any salon which promotes and uses this product. The removal system is a snap for the professional and the product is wonderfully durable and lives up to its promises. If a salon advertises that they use Shellac and then divert you to some other product- run, do not walk out of the salon and make sure you're getting Shellac somewhere else. It's a superior product for the no-chip promise.

Only the best professional advice from

The Castle Lady    

    

If you're ever in Woodstock and need your nails done....

Right in the heart of the town is the prettiest little place
to stop in and get the best in nail services available.



It's clean, very professional and well equipped
and quite comfortable.

Be sure to tell them
The Castle Lady
sent you...

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly Part Two: Four Don'ts

There are four things wrong with the following nail art photo:

The first is that it breaks my esthetic rule of not having the same identical design on each nail.

The color is atrocious.

Avoid green on nails for the same reason you shouldn't mix the colors orange and purple.

Duckbill-shaped nails will always be out the same way clogs were always ugly.

They only belong where they appear in nature.

They are a sure signature of a total amateur.

Drug czars on nails are the political equivalent of nails on a chalkboard.

Don't do it. Ever.

Sage advice from

The Castle Lady

Acupuncture or Accupressure ?

     Quite a few people are into the Asian wellness practices perhaps because they seem like a more natural approach than the Western medical services that we have come to accept as the tried and true. I sit somewhere in the middle of all of it and I can give you a very good reason for my reluctance to jump into the water with both feet on eastern and western medicine. (Pun intended.) I believe, in most cases, that people are often their own best doctors if they make an earnest effort to get in touch and in tune with their bodies. This is not such a difficult task if you are willing to pay attention to habits (good or bad) and maybe even make notes about reactions to the world around you. How your body deals with environment, what you eat and breathe, hygiene and the way you take care of yourself plus the status of your interpersonal relationships is a determinant for your health- not necessarily what Dr. Oz says ! 

     This month I want to focus on a particular practice that I feel has a good basis- which is acupuncture. Many people who will not go for this extreme in Eastern practices should know that there is a way of using the sound principle of this practice without the extreme of using something as invasive and potentially dangerous as needles to cause the effects. Below, you will see a scaled down graph for both feet. This graph concerns the portion of your foot which makes contact with the floor or ground. It is specifically a reflexology chart which is used by reflexologists. This chart is the basis of the 5,000 year old practice that's used by acupuncturists and reflexologists alike. This only concerns the feet, in truth, and not the hands although there is a corresponding chart for the hands which are pitched toward licensed manicurists like myself. When the hand charts came out with the book titled, The Reflexology Workout  I recognized the practical use but it is not necessarily the same meridian lines which intersect throughout your body as is laid out in the Asian practice which I studied in another book originally- Reflexology by Maybelle Segal. Traditionally, it only involved the feet.

     In a nutshell, the foot chart will show how every area on your foot corresponds with another area of your body through these unseen meridian lines. The core of your body organs can be located in specific areas on the heel to arch to the top portion of the bottom of your foot while the face, neck and sinuses correspond with your toes and instep. If you decide to study this further on your own, I urge you to buy or borrow the two books I just mentioned to get a more detailed run-down on this branch of holistic practices. If you intend on using the services of a reflexologist I urge you to educate yourself first because it is not regulated by any board, medical or otherwise that I know of- certainly not in Colorado- and you need to know if, in fact, the person attempting this practice on you has credentials to do so. Educating yourself will be important if not crucial.

     Personally, I have self-educated myself in the practice and use the back-up of my Cosmetology State Board manicuring licenses as the proper credentials and have done very well. Many people that have come to me for pedicure/reflexology services have stayed loyal to me for decades! Acupressure is the art of manipulating and putting a little more pressure through massage to these points on the foot which corresponds to another area of your body. This will either stimulate or cause the organ or area in question to respond through pressure-touching to normalize. That is the basic theory behind it.  It is not invasive in the way that acupuncture can be, obviously, so you are not risking infection of any kind from a licensed practitioner.

     Why are the feet or hands the primary target? Our branch of reflexology uses the theory that the sole of your foot is the map of your entire body. Originally it was termed zone therapy by reflexologists who may massage your entire body. If a pedicurist/reflexologist finds extra sensitivity to pressure in one spot, for example, or find a tiny knot it can target trouble for another area of your body. An example would be that if I were to find sensitivity on the midpoint, far right side on the bottom of your right foot there may be some trouble with your spleen!  But if I find a knot on the same area on your left foot you might have gall bladder or liver damage.

     The act of massaging may stimulate some blocked meridian lines to detoxify or liquefy a blockage. If believing that what happens on your feet can affect your heart or head seems too farfetched you can also grasp the fact that when you were once tinier than a tadpole the cells that became your feet were once very close to those cells that formed the rest of you. Reflexologists have, in effect, proven that it's possible that stimulating nerves in the feet causes reflexive actions in other parts of the body and, if nothing else, may at least indicate some internal problems you may be unaware of at present but could mean trouble in the near future.

     Each and every person who comes to me for additional reflexology services gets a free booklet which will show you a precise chart with what I have found, what areas I have stimulated and instructions for doing follow-ups along with additional information on the different kinds of foot workouts you may do on your own. I always like to make sure that I have educated my client well. Knowing is believing and happiness personified. Believe it !    .

      

Don't hesitate to leave a comment if you have any questions !

The Castle Lady     

Bromhidrosis and other stinky problems

     It's time to talk about pedicures and taking care of the feet. As a licensed manicurist I've been waiting on women hand and foot for a little over thirty-six years but I can honestly say there isn't any aspect of the nail business that I don't like doing and pedicures are one of those duties which I enjoy every bit as much as doing nail art. I really mean what I just said. As a nail technician and particularly for the beauty business in general, there is no greater feeling, as far as I'm concerned, than to help someone feel better about themselves and promote their health in the bargain. Getting a good pedicure is right up there with the best aids to getting rid of stress that you can name- every bit as stress relieving as doing yoga.

     Many people are very touchy about their feet, however. One out of every ten people will get a pedicure at least once in their lifetime. I don't think that's a healthy number. Honestly, if you have never had one you're missing out on relaxation and pampering that is unsurpassed. When I have to do my own feet it's still better than not being able to get a pedicure at all. I can feel totally fatigued but after a good foot massage I'll feel re-energized enough to run a marathon. There is no better experience in the world and I guarantee those words. 

     One reason a person may not want to do a pedicure is because they're embarrassed about foot odor. Here's a Catch-22 that needs to come out in the open, once and for all. Some of my best cures are dealing with foot odor. Once you get to the reason for it and get therapy for the cause then it's one issue that will make you glad you got over the embarrassment and dealt with it. The reason can vary from having foot fungus to merely needing to throw away a pair of shoes. The actual odor is telling so don't hesitate to get out there and get some help. Make sure you seek someone who has been doing pedicures as long as I have and that they seem as knowledgeable when you bring up the subject. I've probably performed about a thousand pedicures through the years so I know my stuff and I think I've seen just about everything including missing toes and fallen arches, which of course, is not reparable. My point, however, is that nothing bothers or embarrasses me and I like helping people solve their hand, foot and nail problems.

     Let me give you an idea of what you can expect when you arrive for a pedicure service in a licensed salon. You will either be seated, on arrival, in a special pedicure spa unit complete with a comfortable massaging recliner or seated in regular seating and your feet placed in a separate foot bath. Either way, you'll see the same implements as is used for a manicure, soaking in a disinfectant preparation and your footbath will be pre-sanitized and ready with a warm to hot foaming foot soak. After you have soaked for at least fifteen minutes, each foot is drawn out of the water, separately, for work on trimming the nails, the cuticles and then the foot overall with callous removal, cleanup and massage. The finish, if you choose it, will be polishing the toes. That's optional, of course, but done as a regular practice for most technicians. Other steps may be added such as special foot scrubs, special applications for cleansing, drawing out impurities and products applied for refined exfoliation. Many products can make the difference between a good pedicure and a great one. The more knowledgeable the technician, chances are you'll see a plethora of products being used. Don't be too shy to ask what is being used and why- I have always felt that an informed customer is generally a happier customer overall.

     As usual, I welcome any questions you may have and will be glad to reply in an e-mail or in the comments.

Overcoming Flagrant Habits

     One of the most difficult bad habits to break is the biting of nails and cuticles. For those who are not nail biters, understanding this habit and solving the problem often remains a mystery. In the official textbooks of cosmetology concerning this insidious problem it is referred to under conditions as onychophagy (pronounced: awna-koffa-gee). In truth, it's a nervous habit which can be dealt with in two ways. The first is to make it impossible and undesirable to continue with the habit. This is the most difficult aspect of onychophagy. In the past, people have resorted to using manufactured solutions applied which have a bad taste and works for many people to break the physical aspect of the condition. The underlying cause goes without being addressed or dealt with effectively. Nervous habits can have deep-seated psychological reasons and getting to a complete solution  requires much personal insight of the person who suffers this malady.

     A sector of people believe that nail biting is not that different a habit than cigarette smoking. I have a suspicion this started to gain credibility when they were both classified as a dirty habit. I know that the unsanitary aspect can make someone truly believe this but in fact there is no true equation between the two habits. Cigarette smoking is a chemical addiction whereas nail biting definitely is developed through mild psychosis or neurosis. It may be easier to quit smoking than to stop biting your nails from a psychological standpoint. 

     When I first started working after I received my license to do nails, I was busy applying artificial nails when I noticed that a lot of the clients for this service were nail biters who simply couldn't stop by any other means. They had tried the bad-tasting preparations but found this Pavlovian cure to be ineffective and hoped that a barrier between their mouth and the nails would finally stop the problem. These were always the hardcore nail biters and it only stopped them for awhile. Many would continue to bite their cuticles to almost disgusting proportions or in one instance that I know of- with a technician I worked with- her client cracked a tooth in half trying to chew on her artificial nails! This was the worst case scenario I ever witnessed and still astounds me to this day. What the client said about herself and the incident, however, gave me an insight that most of the technicians probably ignored or were too grossed out to pay attention to the fact.

     Stress or depression which goes unheeded is most likely the underlying cause of any habit which involves actually biting or cutting oneself. As a matter of fact, you may be surprised to discover that cutters are not treated any different by psychologists and psychiatrists than a nail biter would be and they are quite often nail biters as well as cutters. Cutters insist that they feel calmer after they cut and do this in the same way that addicts smoke or shoot up because the body releases a specific hormone when they cut. It's to relieve the mental or physical stress they can't handle. So nail biting can technically be viewed as an addiction with psychological implications rather than chemical. The cure by artificial nail application is a highly effective solution because of the barrier factor but don't forget that it's important to use insight as to what the source of the stress may be and eliminate or learn how to deal with that source more effectively. Each time your hand flies to your mouth back up mentally and ask yourself a series of questions.

     What was I doing just now and how did that make me feel ?

     Who was I talking to on the phone and how do they make me feel ?

     Did something just happen which triggered my reaction to bite my nails ?

    

     This will give you some idea of how to cope better while you're consciously taking some action on the issue. Don't give up and think of this as an investment in your self-esteem and future confidence. Your feelings are important and you deserve to be heard and recognized.

Empowering every potential customer with sage advice,

The Castle Lady 
(and still going... lol)

       

General Information

      My last entry, concerning nail art, was very specified in its approach to sensibility and aesthetics concerning nail art but I haven't covered the basics in searching for a nail salon or nail technician. Perhaps the most important information that a client would want to know about her nail salon or spa visit is contained in a wonderful blog entry I found from a salon in the suburban Denver area. This link explains clear, basic terms you should know to ask informed questions. 



http://saloncherryhillsdayspa.wordpress.com/2010/12/09/nail-care/

     As a licensed professional, all these years, I have continually approached all services as a chance to educate my clients even from the beginning in 1977. I am sure they appreciated the fact that I was willing to share inside info in their terms. By doing so, I found that all the customers who were regulars to my manicuring table were loyal for decades and that's impressive today in a fleeting, fly-by-night world of personal services. If your client isn't a tourist the opportunity is clear to share your knowledge so that he or she can appreciate the value of the service she/he is receiving. Even fleeting consumers, such as travelers, received the fullness of my knowledge on any subject that I discussed with them. I wasn't surprised that in several instances people would ask for me after years of absence because they had moved or they were infrequent travelers to my locale. This was especially true when I lived and practiced in California.

     When I went through the above blog entry I felt that some of the points needed to be expanded on. How will you know if your nail tech is truly observing the proper sanitation rules for your state ? The best way to know for certain is to get in contact with your state board of cosmetology/barber board. Much information is supplied online and there may be a PDF file you can download and peruse at will. Most likely it will also cover such information as air filtration requirements and ventilation. Even the layout of the salon is crucial because of requirements concerning personal hygiene required before and after a service for both the tech and the customer.



     Most states have added certification requirements for the use of electric drills during acrylic and powder gel artificial nail application. This is for your protection concerning safety in practical use and sanitation as well. High speed drills must be sanitized just like metallic implements because their bits are used over again. Your technician may use an electric file with less speed (which is safer) and the sanding bits are used once and then thrown away eliminating the need to sanitize the actual bit but requiring that the unit is periodically sanitized as well. I only use electric files for backfills which are done to renew the french white smile line in a set of pink and white tip acrylic nails. I never, ever, use it over the natural nail bed. This is my personal preference and philosophy concerning the use of drills or electric files. I have seen one too many women left with tiger stripes on their nails to commit the act myself. These are red tinged arches left on the nail plate from over-aggressive finishing with drills along the cuticle line of the nails. Those angry-looking ugly marks, which may show through the acrylic, signify that your nail is missing in those spots and the nail bed is exposed! If it continues, fill-in after fill-in you will see the tiger stripe effect and it cannot be covered without a full coat enamel or opaque gel color. If you ever see this on your nails please report it to your local state board. Your nails and other people's nails will thank you. 

      MMA was once a constituent in the liquid used to apply acrylic nail applications. Most professional products are now devoid of this solvent and one sure way to know if it is being used is by the strong, pervasive odor. If you suspect that a salon is using MMA report it to your state board of Cosmetology. Another new line of defense concerning chemicals is now referred to as Big Three Free. FDA regulations were passed years ago which banned the use of formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) from cosmetics and the targets were all too obvious. These were once routine chemicals which could be found in nail enamels and similar products. It has affected the way nail polishes adhere and dry thoroughly. Chipping became a problem without the use of a decent plasticizer and it is the chief reason why gel polishes and finishers have become so popular. What many clients don't understand is that the way most of the proliferating gel polishes must be effectively removed is more damaging to the nail than they may realize. It can be done simply or a little more difficult but the results are damaging either way. Either the pure acetone used to do the removal will make the nail brittle or the seemingly easy peel off takes a layer of nail with it.

     I have found a simple way to find out if a polish contains a plasticizer which is all that is needed for good (and safe) adhesion. Open the bottle and sniff. If you smell anything like bananas as the top note to the strong odor then it contains a basic plasticizer which is perfectly safe. I want to add here that formaldehyde, toluene and DBP were used for nearly a century without any incidents known to me and are harmless as long as you don't drink the stuff. LOL ! Storing your own polishes in a relatively cool and non-humid area will assure long life of the polish. Don't open and close the bottle continuously or leave it open for a long period of time as it will be useless the next time you want to do your nails. Nail technicians should know this well.

     If you have any further questions about the material I have covered don't hesitate to leave it in the comments and I'll get back to you as soon as possible with an answer.

At your service,

The Castle Lady