Sunday, June 28, 2015

Professional Manicures


and how to know if you actually got one....
     If you believe that having nails is the greatest and newest invention then you are completely uninformed about manicure and pedicure evolution. As a matter of fact there is no profession (except for one we won't mention) as old as the practice of beautification of hands and nails. Check out the following ancient time line provided by Crabtree and Evelyn:


     Yes, green henna actually imparts red on nails as well as hair and it adds a sheen along with a conditioning coat on nails- just as with the hair which is quite durable against chemical and oxidation damage. I did henna manicures back in 1977 right out of school and they were every bit as popular as sculptured nails- as we called acrylic then...

     Today, the big 3 free formulas are considered safer than what was being distributed for consumer use in the beginning of the 20th century but the quality of the staying power has been compromised a little in the name of safety. Nothing has replaced the professional manicure, however, and I'm going to show you the steps which must be present.



     Very briefly, the first step is removal of any old polish which may be on the nails. If you have no polish remains on your nail this step is unnecessary and unwarranted since it has a drying effect on the nail. The next step is for your nails to be filed correctly which is done in one direction on either side of the nail. Beveling for smoothness can be done in the exact opposite direction only. At this point you will soak your nails in either soap and water solution, an oil or cream preparation especially for manicures. (Don't be afraid to ask and look at labels on products.) 



     Once the massage has been done then the next step is to work on the cuticles. Most manicurists will use cuticle remover unless the soaking solution is already set for such preparation. Those with glycerin in them are for the specific purpose of pushing back cuticles and are intended to avoid the step of cuticle removers and/or cutting. If you are soaked in soap and water, a cuticle remover is absolutely necessary for pushing back the cuticles and should be washed off prior to polish application. Cutting cuticles with a soap and water manicure is de rigeur. Once you have arrived at a cleaned nail and are satisfied with this portion then the nail enamel or lacquer is the next final set of steps. First your technician will apply a basecoat that most suits your nail type, followed by the color enamel or lacquer of two coats then a final topcoat. That is standard procedure.
     If you see other or more steps during the process they are not incorrect and are generally at the discretion of the manicurist. Additional steps are not wrong nor unconventional and you'll find, if you go to many different nail techs, that they all have their own style and unique way of doing just about every step of their manicures.

     What you will learn about your nails and hands with continued visits to professionals is valuable and if the technicians are informative you'll eventually know what to throw away and what to keep from your experiences within a month of regular care. Manicures should be done once a week for maximum effect. By keeping your manicures consistent you can track your progress easier. If you get involved in the maintenance you may find that you are one of the lucky people who can go every two weeks. More power to you !

Today's manicures are product contingent more than ever before but I would take that idea to task, to be honest. More now than ever, the professional tech in question has more to do with your success with manicures than the products she uses. Her level of expertise and technique will determine whether your nails are filed correctly, conditioned right, cleaned properly and polished well. Each step should be done correctly according to the proper application of the different products and there are many professional products- quite a few you have probably never heard about or seen. For me, it's a plus that there really is nothing new under the sun even though new companies and new products spring up every year. I am familiar with all the products that are used today because of many years of keeping up with the professional trade magazines and trying almost every product on the professional market. With the training plus trial and error that goes with learning each medium and each medium's line of professional products I have kept my finger on the pulse of one of the most prosperous industries in the world.  
    
Until next time,
  
The Castle Lady
    
              My next subject will be on professional pedicures standard procedure. 
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