Bromhidrosis and other stinky problems

     It's time to talk about pedicures and taking care of the feet. As a licensed manicurist I've been waiting on women hand and foot for a little over thirty-six years but I can honestly say there isn't any aspect of the nail business that I don't like doing and pedicures are one of those duties which I enjoy every bit as much as doing nail art. I really mean what I just said. As a nail technician and particularly for the beauty business in general, there is no greater feeling, as far as I'm concerned, than to help someone feel better about themselves and promote their health in the bargain. Getting a good pedicure is right up there with the best aids to getting rid of stress that you can name- every bit as stress relieving as doing yoga.

     Many people are very touchy about their feet, however. One out of every ten people will get a pedicure at least once in their lifetime. I don't think that's a healthy number. Honestly, if you have never had one you're missing out on relaxation and pampering that is unsurpassed. When I have to do my own feet it's still better than not being able to get a pedicure at all. I can feel totally fatigued but after a good foot massage I'll feel re-energized enough to run a marathon. There is no better experience in the world and I guarantee those words. 

     One reason a person may not want to do a pedicure is because they're embarrassed about foot odor. Here's a Catch-22 that needs to come out in the open, once and for all. Some of my best cures are dealing with foot odor. Once you get to the reason for it and get therapy for the cause then it's one issue that will make you glad you got over the embarrassment and dealt with it. The reason can vary from having foot fungus to merely needing to throw away a pair of shoes. The actual odor is telling so don't hesitate to get out there and get some help. Make sure you seek someone who has been doing pedicures as long as I have and that they seem as knowledgeable when you bring up the subject. I've probably performed about a thousand pedicures through the years so I know my stuff and I think I've seen just about everything including missing toes and fallen arches, which of course, is not reparable. My point, however, is that nothing bothers or embarrasses me and I like helping people solve their hand, foot and nail problems.

     Let me give you an idea of what you can expect when you arrive for a pedicure service in a licensed salon. You will either be seated, on arrival, in a special pedicure spa unit complete with a comfortable massaging recliner or seated in regular seating and your feet placed in a separate foot bath. Either way, you'll see the same implements as is used for a manicure, soaking in a disinfectant preparation and your footbath will be pre-sanitized and ready with a warm to hot foaming foot soak. After you have soaked for at least fifteen minutes, each foot is drawn out of the water, separately, for work on trimming the nails, the cuticles and then the foot overall with callous removal, cleanup and massage. The finish, if you choose it, will be polishing the toes. That's optional, of course, but done as a regular practice for most technicians. Other steps may be added such as special foot scrubs, special applications for cleansing, drawing out impurities and products applied for refined exfoliation. Many products can make the difference between a good pedicure and a great one. The more knowledgeable the technician, chances are you'll see a plethora of products being used. Don't be too shy to ask what is being used and why- I have always felt that an informed customer is generally a happier customer overall.

     As usual, I welcome any questions you may have and will be glad to reply in an e-mail or in the comments.

Overcoming Flagrant Habits

     One of the most difficult bad habits to break is the biting of nails and cuticles. For those who are not nail biters, understanding this habit and solving the problem often remains a mystery. In the official textbooks of cosmetology concerning this insidious problem it is referred to under conditions as onychophagy (pronounced: awna-koffa-gee). In truth, it's a nervous habit which can be dealt with in two ways. The first is to make it impossible and undesirable to continue with the habit. This is the most difficult aspect of onychophagy. In the past, people have resorted to using manufactured solutions applied which have a bad taste and works for many people to break the physical aspect of the condition. The underlying cause goes without being addressed or dealt with effectively. Nervous habits can have deep-seated psychological reasons and getting to a complete solution  requires much personal insight of the person who suffers this malady.

     A sector of people believe that nail biting is not that different a habit than cigarette smoking. I have a suspicion this started to gain credibility when they were both classified as a dirty habit. I know that the unsanitary aspect can make someone truly believe this but in fact there is no true equation between the two habits. Cigarette smoking is a chemical addiction whereas nail biting definitely is developed through mild psychosis or neurosis. It may be easier to quit smoking than to stop biting your nails from a psychological standpoint. 

     When I first started working after I received my license to do nails, I was busy applying artificial nails when I noticed that a lot of the clients for this service were nail biters who simply couldn't stop by any other means. They had tried the bad-tasting preparations but found this Pavlovian cure to be ineffective and hoped that a barrier between their mouth and the nails would finally stop the problem. These were always the hardcore nail biters and it only stopped them for awhile. Many would continue to bite their cuticles to almost disgusting proportions or in one instance that I know of- with a technician I worked with- her client cracked a tooth in half trying to chew on her artificial nails! This was the worst case scenario I ever witnessed and still astounds me to this day. What the client said about herself and the incident, however, gave me an insight that most of the technicians probably ignored or were too grossed out to pay attention to the fact.

     Stress or depression which goes unheeded is most likely the underlying cause of any habit which involves actually biting or cutting oneself. As a matter of fact, you may be surprised to discover that cutters are not treated any different by psychologists and psychiatrists than a nail biter would be and they are quite often nail biters as well as cutters. Cutters insist that they feel calmer after they cut and do this in the same way that addicts smoke or shoot up because the body releases a specific hormone when they cut. It's to relieve the mental or physical stress they can't handle. So nail biting can technically be viewed as an addiction with psychological implications rather than chemical. The cure by artificial nail application is a highly effective solution because of the barrier factor but don't forget that it's important to use insight as to what the source of the stress may be and eliminate or learn how to deal with that source more effectively. Each time your hand flies to your mouth back up mentally and ask yourself a series of questions.

     What was I doing just now and how did that make me feel ?

     Who was I talking to on the phone and how do they make me feel ?

     Did something just happen which triggered my reaction to bite my nails ?

    

     This will give you some idea of how to cope better while you're consciously taking some action on the issue. Don't give up and think of this as an investment in your self-esteem and future confidence. Your feelings are important and you deserve to be heard and recognized.

Empowering every potential customer with sage advice,

The Castle Lady 
(and still going... lol)

       

General Information

      My last entry, concerning nail art, was very specified in its approach to sensibility and aesthetics concerning nail art but I haven't covered the basics in searching for a nail salon or nail technician. Perhaps the most important information that a client would want to know about her nail salon or spa visit is contained in a wonderful blog entry I found from a salon in the suburban Denver area. This link explains clear, basic terms you should know to ask informed questions. 



http://saloncherryhillsdayspa.wordpress.com/2010/12/09/nail-care/

     As a licensed professional, all these years, I have continually approached all services as a chance to educate my clients even from the beginning in 1977. I am sure they appreciated the fact that I was willing to share inside info in their terms. By doing so, I found that all the customers who were regulars to my manicuring table were loyal for decades and that's impressive today in a fleeting, fly-by-night world of personal services. If your client isn't a tourist the opportunity is clear to share your knowledge so that he or she can appreciate the value of the service she/he is receiving. Even fleeting consumers, such as travelers, received the fullness of my knowledge on any subject that I discussed with them. I wasn't surprised that in several instances people would ask for me after years of absence because they had moved or they were infrequent travelers to my locale. This was especially true when I lived and practiced in California.

     When I went through the above blog entry I felt that some of the points needed to be expanded on. How will you know if your nail tech is truly observing the proper sanitation rules for your state ? The best way to know for certain is to get in contact with your state board of cosmetology/barber board. Much information is supplied online and there may be a PDF file you can download and peruse at will. Most likely it will also cover such information as air filtration requirements and ventilation. Even the layout of the salon is crucial because of requirements concerning personal hygiene required before and after a service for both the tech and the customer.



     Most states have added certification requirements for the use of electric drills during acrylic and powder gel artificial nail application. This is for your protection concerning safety in practical use and sanitation as well. High speed drills must be sanitized just like metallic implements because their bits are used over again. Your technician may use an electric file with less speed (which is safer) and the sanding bits are used once and then thrown away eliminating the need to sanitize the actual bit but requiring that the unit is periodically sanitized as well. I only use electric files for backfills which are done to renew the french white smile line in a set of pink and white tip acrylic nails. I never, ever, use it over the natural nail bed. This is my personal preference and philosophy concerning the use of drills or electric files. I have seen one too many women left with tiger stripes on their nails to commit the act myself. These are red tinged arches left on the nail plate from over-aggressive finishing with drills along the cuticle line of the nails. Those angry-looking ugly marks, which may show through the acrylic, signify that your nail is missing in those spots and the nail bed is exposed! If it continues, fill-in after fill-in you will see the tiger stripe effect and it cannot be covered without a full coat enamel or opaque gel color. If you ever see this on your nails please report it to your local state board. Your nails and other people's nails will thank you. 

      MMA was once a constituent in the liquid used to apply acrylic nail applications. Most professional products are now devoid of this solvent and one sure way to know if it is being used is by the strong, pervasive odor. If you suspect that a salon is using MMA report it to your state board of Cosmetology. Another new line of defense concerning chemicals is now referred to as Big Three Free. FDA regulations were passed years ago which banned the use of formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) from cosmetics and the targets were all too obvious. These were once routine chemicals which could be found in nail enamels and similar products. It has affected the way nail polishes adhere and dry thoroughly. Chipping became a problem without the use of a decent plasticizer and it is the chief reason why gel polishes and finishers have become so popular. What many clients don't understand is that the way most of the proliferating gel polishes must be effectively removed is more damaging to the nail than they may realize. It can be done simply or a little more difficult but the results are damaging either way. Either the pure acetone used to do the removal will make the nail brittle or the seemingly easy peel off takes a layer of nail with it.

     I have found a simple way to find out if a polish contains a plasticizer which is all that is needed for good (and safe) adhesion. Open the bottle and sniff. If you smell anything like bananas as the top note to the strong odor then it contains a basic plasticizer which is perfectly safe. I want to add here that formaldehyde, toluene and DBP were used for nearly a century without any incidents known to me and are harmless as long as you don't drink the stuff. LOL ! Storing your own polishes in a relatively cool and non-humid area will assure long life of the polish. Don't open and close the bottle continuously or leave it open for a long period of time as it will be useless the next time you want to do your nails. Nail technicians should know this well.

     If you have any further questions about the material I have covered don't hesitate to leave it in the comments and I'll get back to you as soon as possible with an answer.

At your service,

The Castle Lady

       

    

Nail Art- The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

     Perhaps it's best left to the eyes of the beholder and that is why I'm taking the time to really dig into this subject when it comes to nail technology. Anyone who has ever delved into the world of art in a basic and general way can tell you that just about anything goes since the avant garde genre came to the fore. Art covers a lot of mediums today and artistry in many varied fields is important and improves our lives for the most part. I'm going to put aside everything that art touches in this instance and concentrate solely on the aesthetics of beautiful nails, hands and feet. I entered the field of nail technology many years ago for that reason alone and not particularly to prove to anyone that I'm an artist but rather specifically a nail artist.



      Would you go to a plastic surgeon to get a tattoo? Would you ask a prosthetic artist to make you an odd-shaped leg or hand ? If your answer is yes would you dare to ask yourself why you're asking for such a thing ? A good part of the nails and nail art I see people wearing today is not particularly pretty and some of the actual nails look dangerous with no glamour attached to the look at all. It's quite puzzling to me because I always strove to make any artificial product I applied to nails to look not only beautiful but as natural as possible. It became and still is my trademark.

     I probably shouldn't be surprised that this has happened and that some people don't think anything of this disheartening trend. I watched it happen to the hairdressing profession years ago and I remember my mother's reaction to all of it. She was an NHCA member throughout most of her career as a professional hairstylist. She did everything. Color, blonding and highlighting, cuts for men, women and children, perms, shampoo sets, styling for weddings, braiding and elaborate hair styles. I remember her doing marcel type waves early in her career without an iron which she later used to try her hand at working with black hair styling. She found that very difficult and time consuming but also very interesting. I'm convinced that there wasn't anything she couldn't do. I also know that there were a lot of things she wouldn't do because it would harm someone's hair. She didn't like using irons and refrained from using them. She was very particular about the products she used and absolutely abhorred the crazy styling during the 70s and 80s. She didn't like the spiky styling that has now lasted two decades.

     I'm certain her reasons were the same as mine are now about a good portion of the nail art out there. I'm also a little upset about how artificial nails are being styled as well but we'll cover that subject at another time. The best way for me to tell you what the true essence of nail art should be, will be to just illustrate.

I do have a few hard and fast rules that I stick to adherently. The first one is that I do not put a different color base on each nail.

The second is that I refrain from doing the same design on each nail.

The third is that I only decorate a few nails on a single customer if I do freehand nail art such as those below. I seldom, if ever, decorate all ten digits.

My fourth and last is that I keep a consistency in the designs for unity by either using the same colors- even if I mix the colors- or the same geometric shapes or similar designs which compliment each other. Color and design consistency is usually best.

     The biggest mistake I see on people's nails is having the same exact airbrushed design on all ten nails. That is the wrong type of consistency. The best nail artists use the same colors in each unique design- even if they put art on every single nail. The design or picture should have complimentary colors- no purple and orange or yellow and brown dots, for example- unless you're using acrylic paints and mixing colors to make shades like I do for freehand art. Elementary school art belongs on elementary school kids. Just don't do it, even if you teach kindergarten. Make it a habit to search out pictures and photos that you would like your nail artist to put on your nails. She might surprise you with her talent. If you get a stressed out look go find someone who is as adventurous as you are, now that you know what to look for in a nail technician.

     Airbrushing is most likely the classiest way to make truly aesthetic art on nails. The photo below will give you some idea of what can be achieved. In this case color coordinated designs are so much prettier. Even putting the same design on each nail works because you can keep blending the lines with mixes and the possibilities are endless clear into three, four or five dimensional designs. That all comes with practice. Everyone of these designs were made with templates I cut out myself in an airbrush seminar with the Colormist people many years ago.

     On the other hand, if a professional just uses airbrushing to paint over stencils you're most likely going to get the same design on each nail. You'll get a lot of stares, all right, but for all the wrong reasons. Many nail artists haven't taken the time for or received any proper education in using an airbrush unit and that is why they do the stencils. If you have to clean up your own cuticles after getting these designs then the tech didn't receive any formal instruction in using an airbrush machine for nails at all. You might want to check to see if she has a professional state license in cosmetology or manicuring. If you are unsure how to find out, send me a quick e-mail and I'll get in touch with you on how to proceed even if you live in another state.

     One more aspect to consider is my pet peeve. When do you know if your nail art is just over the top ? My rule of thumb- if you'll pardon the quip! - is that if you really can't discern an actual pattern, consistency or attractiveness to what you have on your hands it may be time to get out the polish remover. Just remember that having beautiful nails is to be an accessory to your overall fashion statement or look. Even a fashionista will tell you that and you won't see one looking as if someone grabbed her and colored over the lines. In other words, if it seems garish or outrageous then it is because it's affecting the way you feel about your hands.  

Believe it...

The Castle Lady  

'Tis the season for nails...

reg. $17.50 for hot oil manicures