Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Magazine Misinformation



     Today I want to tackle the issue of how you should dissect the misconceptions and downright deceptive information which is published in all sorts of periodicals and magazines about manicures. I recently retrieved a full page article I found in the November 2013 issue of Prevention Magazine titled, “Your Healthy Manicure How-To”. The following is the article verbatim:
Avoid salon chemicals (and potential infections) with these five simple at-home steps
1. File your nails Hold an emery board parallel to your nail’s edge. File across, then round out the corners.
2. Soften your skin Microwave a bowl of lotion for 10 seconds, then soak your fingers in it for 60 seconds.
3. Care for cuticles Don’t trim cuticles; they protect nails from infection. Gently push them back with a damp cloth.
4. Smooth ridges  Run a nail buffer, like OPI Brilliance Block ($6; ulta.com), back and forth across your nails to smooth vertical lines.
5. Polish  Polish fortifies the nail. Try peptide-infused toxin-free Dermelect ME in Sophisticate ($14; dermelect.com).

   It further states, on a side bar, to reconsider your polish remover by advising you to try a nourishing one like A Beautiful Life Soy Polish Remover ($20; abeautifullife.com), stating that the acetone is replaced by soy!

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    Most of this article is not only in error, a large amount of it is even dangerous advice and naïve, at the least. The first premise which is completely false is that you will be avoiding potential infections without proper sanitation and educated precaution. None of the info in this article alerts you to this fact and given the likelihood that readers of this magazine consider it to be backed by medical professionals- the premise is totally inexcusable.
     No less than three sources were listed for the support of this article. They are Zoe Draelos, MD from Duke University; Richard Scher, MD, Weill Cornell Medical College and last, but not least, Donna Perillo from Sweet Lily Natural Nail Spa. The latter source could’ve lent a credible and experienced source were it not for the fact that many nail spas are not regulated by Barber/Cosmetology Boards nor any other licensing board at present. In fact, the words ‘nail’ in conjunction with ‘spa’ may be an indication that the nail technicians hired may not be professionally licensed personally. State boards across almost all states in the U.S. require a person’s license to be displayed prominently in or above their stations. To know for sure, look for them and if you don’t see credentials that match your techs name with the official state logo on it then most likely you are not safe from potential infections. Look to see if implements to be used are actively soaking in disinfectant solution. Is the table clean? Both manicurist and patron must wash their hands prior to the service. These are just some of the precautions.
     Assuming that you still want to try to work on yourself, re-read the five steps above and I’ll tell you why they’re wrong and written by someone who did not speak with a licensed professional at all- leave alone two doctors. Emery boards cannot be sanitized and therefore are potential hazards. Licensed professionals use materials kinder to the nails than a standard emery board and most of these filing implements can be sanitized. Microwaving a bowl of any lotion you have available will create a disastrous effect. Professionals use preparations specifically formulated to emulsify when they are heated and they have apparatuses which will heat the hot oil nail soak to a proper temperature which can be controlled.
      Licensed professionals can trim your cuticles and generally do if anything is extraneous and a potential to worsen if the cuticles are unkempt or forward growth needs to be cleaned off of the nail plate. Cuticles unattended need softening and to be trimmed where they are loose or jagged. This is our job and is best left to us because we were trained how to deal with these issues with our specific implements. It is our raison d’etre. Compris ? If you must do this yourself, wash your hands thoroughly being sure to wet the hands thoroughly for five minutes in warm water. When you dry your hands just gently push back on the cuticle lines with a towel and then leave them alone.
    
The rest of the article starts pushing products which are generally only used by professionals! This article is suggesting that perhaps it might be a good idea to use products that you have not been educated to use correctly- and then tells you the wrong way to use them- to the tune of no less than $40. I’m fairly certain that a manicure of this caliber in a licensed salon would not set you back that far in cash and you’ll rest assured knowing that this person most likely knows how to use them correctly.
     The OPI Brilliance Block is intended for finishing artificial nails- not to try to excoriate ridges on a natural nail. What may initially feel smoother to you will eventually start cracking right along those ridges or lines because you have removed the top tissue which fuses the nail together as a layered unit- being as how your nail is actually epithelial tissue- (horny tissue)!
  
   Regular polish is a fortifier for nails-true! But a peptide-infused version without the so-called toxic three (dibutyl pthylate, formaldehyde, toluene) will most likely bubble after a manicure done with heated lotion. I doubt that anyone is going to like spending $14 on a bottle of polish only to have it look like they have some weird nail disease. I’ll be brutally honest here and tell you that probably an old polish you have on your vanity table would do just fine and won’t hurt you a bit. Here’s another hot flash! I haven’t a clue how soy could be formulated to take polish off ! Whatever they’d have to do to the soy I’m sure it wouldn’t work or if it did you may not want it to. So much for avoiding salon chemicals. It might be worth it to try taking off that insidious gel polish that chips but won't come off. In that case, it would be worse than ketone from which acetone is a diluted version- right!

Just setting the record straight !

The Castle Lady

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