Magazine Misinformation

     Today I want to tackle the issue of how you should dissect the misconceptions and downright deceptive information which is published in all sorts of periodicals and magazines about manicures. I recently retrieved a full page article I found in the November 2013 issue of Prevention Magazine titled, “Your Healthy Manicure How-To”. The following is the article verbatim:

Avoid salon chemicals (and potential infections) with these five simple at-home steps

1. File your nails Hold an emery board parallel to your nail’s edge. File across, then round out the corners.

2. Soften your skin Microwave a bowl of lotion for 10 seconds, then soak your fingers in it for 60 seconds.

3. Care for cuticles Don’t trim cuticles; they protect nails from infection. Gently push them back with a damp cloth.

4. Smooth ridges  Run a nail buffer, like OPI Brilliance Block ($6; ulta.com), back and forth across your nails to smooth vertical lines.

5. Polish  Polish fortifies the nail. Try peptide-infused toxin-free Dermelect ME in Sophisticate ($14; dermelect.com).

   It further states, on a side bar, to reconsider your polish remover by advising you to try a nourishing one like A Beautiful Life Soy Polish Remover ($20; abeautifullife.com), stating that the acetone is replaced by soy!

*

    Most of this article is not only in error, a large amount of it is even dangerous advice and naïve, at the least. The first premise which is completely false is that you will be avoiding potential infections without proper sanitation and educated precaution. None of the info in this article alerts you to this fact and given the likelihood that readers of this magazine consider it to be backed by medical professionals- the premise is totally inexcusable.

     No less than three sources were listed for the support of this article. They are Zoe Draelos, MD from Duke University; Richard Scher, MD, Weill Cornell Medical College and last, but not least, Donna Perillo from Sweet Lily Natural Nail Spa. The latter source could’ve lent a credible and experienced source were it not for the fact that many nail spas are not regulated by Barber/Cosmetology Boards nor any other licensing board at present. In fact, the words ‘nail’ in conjunction with ‘spa’ may be an indication that the nail technicians hired may not be professionally licensed personally. State boards across almost all states in the U.S. require a person’s license to be displayed prominently in or above their stations. To know for sure, look for them and if you don’t see credentials that match your techs name with the official state logo on it then most likely you are not safe from potential infections. Look to see if implements to be used are actively soaking in disinfectant solution. Is the table clean? Both manicurist and patron must wash their hands prior to the service. These are just some of the precautions.

     Assuming that you still want to try to work on yourself, re-read the five steps above and I’ll tell you why they’re wrong and written by someone who did not speak with a licensed professional at all- leave alone two doctors. Emery boards cannot be sanitized and therefore are potential hazards. Licensed professionals use materials kinder to the nails than a standard emery board and most of these filing implements can be sanitized. Microwaving a bowl of any lotion you have available will create a disastrous effect. Professionals use preparations specifically formulated to emulsify when they are heated and they have apparatuses which will heat the hot oil nail soak to a proper temperature which can be controlled.

      Licensed professionals can trim your cuticles and generally do if anything is extraneous and a potential to worsen if the cuticles are unkempt or forward growth needs to be cleaned off of the nail plate. Cuticles unattended need softening and to be trimmed where they are loose or jagged. This is our job and is best left to us because we were trained how to deal with these issues with our specific implements. It is our raison d’etre. Compris ? If you must do this yourself, wash your hands thoroughly being sure to wet the hands thoroughly for five minutes in warm water. When you dry your hands just gently push back on the cuticle lines with a towel and then leave them alone.

    

The rest of the article starts pushing products which are generally only used by professionals! This article is suggesting that perhaps it might be a good idea to use products that you have not been educated to use correctly- and then tells you the wrong way to use them- to the tune of no less than $40. I’m fairly certain that a manicure of this caliber in a licensed salon would not set you back that far in cash and you’ll rest assured knowing that this person most likely knows how to use them correctly.

     The OPI Brilliance Block is intended for finishing artificial nails- not to try to excoriate ridges on a natural nail. What may initially feel smoother to you will eventually start cracking right along those ridges or lines because you have removed the top tissue which fuses the nail together as a layered unit- being as how your nail is actually epithelial tissue- (horny tissue)!

  

   Regular polish is a fortifier for nails-true! But a peptide-infused version without the so-called toxic three (dibutyl pthylate, formaldehyde, toluene) will most likely bubble after a manicure done with heated lotion. I doubt that anyone is going to like spending $14 on a bottle of polish only to have it look like they have some weird nail disease. I’ll be brutally honest here and tell you that probably an old polish you have on your vanity table would do just fine and won’t hurt you a bit. Here’s another hot flash! I haven’t a clue how soy could be formulated to take polish off ! Whatever they’d have to do to the soy I’m sure it wouldn’t work or if it did you may not want it to. So much for avoiding salon chemicals. It might be worth it to try taking off that insidious gel polish that chips but won't come off. In that case, it would be worse than ketone from which acetone is a diluted version- right!

Just setting the record straight !

The Castle Lady

Shop Smart, Shop Small

      It’s possible that you have seen the ads on T.V. and in print about shopping at local businesses, start-ups and Mom & Pop stores and have changed the usual way of doing business- you know, looking stuff up on Amazon or E-Bay for the cheapest price on over-advertised products. Old habits die hard so I’m writing a bit tongue-in-cheek but very serious about this new and important trend. My thoughts are along the order of the salvation of the American economy. It’s not just about shopping for products made in America- although that’s also important don’t get me wrong! It’s just as important that we recognize and shop smaller businesses because that’s where the lifeblood of our economy and getting back on our financial feet is truly going to happen. Statistics show that for every $100 spent at local small businesses, $68 of that amount returns or stays within the community. This means that small business owners are also supporting local, small businesses! That is a true win/win situation that is guaranteed to help us restructure and keep our communities strong financially.

     If you shop at or work for big business operations and national megastores this may come as a shock to you but that business may not sell items made in America and therefore doesn’t support the local economy. The revenue from the items sold will most likely support only the corporate headquarters locality or somewhere other than your own community. These stores are the reason that the buzzword ‘global’ has taken on a life of its own. Going global doesn’t necessarily mean we are buying products that are outsourced but too often they are where big business is concerned and they wouldn’t be able to offer you the discounts they give without outsourcing.

      Independent small businesses take on many forms in the shape of non-mall music stores, shoe shops or repair, florists, independent bookstores, upstart coffee shops, resell fashion and small beauty salons. Size isn’t our only difference. We get our products from producers and industry that make these supplies in small batches or by hand, often, with obviously better quality. We make up for size with quality, care and a personal touch that cannot be replaced with speed, discounting or large quantity supplies. Innovative ideas and techniques more often start as a small business than in a big box test lab.

      I am a person who loves to buy blank books in which I hand write my diaries and journals. I like to buy handmade blank books when I can. One time I found some beautifully handmade blank books at a renaissance fair in Larkspur, CO and practically bought the proprietress completely out. Each one is unique and I’ve never seen any others remotely like them. Believe it or not I’ve filled every one of those books long since. (I’ve been journaling since I was a pre-teen.) You should have seen this woman. I’m sure that was a happy dance in the back of the stall. Other manufactured books I’ve written in are falling apart and hers are still nearly indestructible after all these years. This is just one illustration but I think I’ve made my point.

      The way we shop or receive services can either make a difference as I’ve stated above or contribute to an economy that no longer supports us. American Express has dedicated a web site to this shopping phenomenon in hopes that it can aid not just the economy but the backbone of all business in our country and around the world. Even the wealthiest of our country, if we trace back their history, started out with modest businesses. Hard work and dedication plus some very smart business strategy made them what they are today- employers on a grand scale.

     For this Christmas season I encourage you to get out there and look for those shops that may be on a wing and a prayer today but may eventually support half your town because you gave them the opportunity over big box. You’ll also sleep better knowing that you are helping your own community. That’s worth it right there.  

Keep Calm and Shop Local !

The Castle Lady

Can Nail Grooming be Considered Repulsive Behavior?

      Back in 2009 when I was perusing Global Traveler magazine online I found a blog entry by the vice president and associate publisher of the magazine, Alex Young, and it really made me think about public behavior of women when it comes to personal grooming.

The following is his blog entry in its entirety:

Pet Peeves

Tuesday, February 12th, 2008

I know we all have them. On a train ride home on the NJ transit, the woman

across from me decided to clip her nails for the world to see and hear. I was

peeved! Granted some may say I have become spoiled traveling in business and

first class, but I am happy to take public transportation to get me where I need

to go. I do it everyday, on the subways, trains etc.. but there are some

behaviors I believe are just not meant for public spaces. Essentially, anything

that should be designated for your bathroom, like nail clipping, should not be

done on a train!

I admit I was so repulsed that I ended up staring in her direction in what must

have seemed like a dirty look. She caught notice of me and gave me a look right

back! I couldn’t believe it. It’s not as if I went into her own home and told

her what to do and not do, but there are some personal items not meant for the

train!

Gum chewing, I have to say, is another. Ever sit next to someone who is chomping

on their gum so loudly you feel like you should be in a pasture with the cows?

Anyway, I consider these to be simple manners, or common courtesy, that do not

seem to catch on to everyone. But what is one to do? Is it the wrong thing to

ask the woman to stop clipping her nails, or tell someone to chew with their

mouth closed? Help me out here people, what would you do?

Here are some additional complaints on You Tube just in case you think it's an isolated incident: 
(Asian woman cutting her nails in public and on a train full of passengers !)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mBlUYEfjLw   

     I came across Alex's article again when I was looking for something else, recently. My initial reaction to this encounter which was not good for Alex, obviously, is still the same. I do think that it was absolutely repulsive behavior to exhibit in public. It’s right up there with picking your nose and spitting when you get right down to it. These acts are too personal to share with strangers and it is meant to be done privately or not at all.

     I’ll go a step further with this particular act. Nail clipping when done incorrectly is downright dangerous. Anyone who has ever been hit with a flying chunk of finger or toe nail clipping can attest to that so it goes all the way to being completely obnoxious and in my estimation should have gotten this woman removed from the train! This is actually antisocial behavior. What this woman did is no less dangerous than smoking on the train or vehemently arguing with someone.

     Being a professional manicurist/nail tech has helped me put this in perspective, knowing the rudiments of personal hand care. I can tell you what I would have done if put in the same situation. First, I would have told her what I do for a living and given her a card. I would have told her that there is a time and a place for everything and that this was not the place for her to clip her nails, put on lipstick or comb her hair. Professionals do these acts under sanitary conditions and take specific precautions when doing their work so everything remains sanitary. If being embarrassed by a licensed pro doesn’t stop someone from committing an antisocial act such as this, then they can only expect people to shun and avoid them when they do.

Enough said.

The Castle Lady

It's Combined Service Deals Month and Our 50th Anniversary !

Even though we've been in the middle of a big heat wave you don't have to plant yourself in the kiddie pool 'til September in order to get relief! If you're lucky enough to live in Athmar Park or in Denver you can mosey on over to Nails for Life at Mary Jane's Beauty Salon where we're having a 50th anniversary combined service daily deals celebration!

     All you have to do to get in on the deals is call in each day to find out what service will get you a sweet deal at the coolest nail spa in town! A sampling of what you will hear is along the lines of manicure and pedicure combinations for $40 rather the regular prices of $30 for the pedicure and 17.50 for the manicure. Combining services also saves time so it's a definite win/win deal. Perhaps you'd like to get a set of nails and you have a friend who wants to come along and get a manicure. You will be able to use a combined service deal on the day it's offered just by mentioning your friend who may receive a complimentary add-on to her service such as a paraffin treatment! Talk about a sweet deal ! These will change everyday so you must call in as soon as Tuesday to initiate the process. You can leave a message requesting the deal or if it's not what you're expecting that day, you can leave a message with a request for what you need and leave a call back number to get an offer on the next opportunity for the deal you want. Fun, huh ?

     This will start on August 29th and run through the month of September. Days open are Tuesday through Saturday so there will be quite a few deals to grab. Leave a comment if you have an idea for a deal you would like. I'm ready for something fun- this is my birthday month.
 

Be sure to check in everyday !

      

     

Professional Manicures

and how to know if you actually got one....

     If you believe that having nails is the greatest and newest invention then you are completely uninformed about manicure and pedicure evolution. As a matter of fact there is no profession (except for one we won't mention) as old as the practice of beautification of hands and nails. Check out the following ancient time line provided by Crabtree and Evelyn:

     Yes, green henna actually imparts red on nails as well as hair and it adds a sheen along with a conditioning coat on nails- just as with the hair which is quite durable against chemical and oxidation damage. I did henna manicures back in 1977 right out of school and they were every bit as popular as sculptured nails- as we called acrylic then...

     Today, the big 3 free formulas are considered safer than what was being distributed for consumer use in the beginning of the 20th century but the quality of the staying power has been compromised a little in the name of safety. Nothing has replaced the professional manicure, however, and I'm going to show you the steps which must be present.

     Very briefly, the first step is removal of any old polish which may be on the nails. If you have no polish remains on your nail this step is unnecessary and unwarranted since it has a drying effect on the nail. The next step is for your nails to be filed correctly which is done in one direction on either side of the nail. Beveling for smoothness can be done in the exact opposite direction only. At this point you will soak your nails in either soap and water solution, an oil or cream preparation especially for manicures. (Don't be afraid to ask and look at labels on products.) 

     Once the massage has been done then the next step is to work on the cuticles. Most manicurists will use cuticle remover unless the soaking solution is already set for such preparation. Those with glycerin in them are for the specific purpose of pushing back cuticles and are intended to avoid the step of cuticle removers and/or cutting. If you are soaked in soap and water, a cuticle remover is absolutely necessary for pushing back the cuticles and should be washed off prior to polish application. Cutting cuticles with a soap and water manicure is de rigeur. Once you have arrived at a cleaned nail and are satisfied with this portion then the nail enamel or lacquer is the next final set of steps. First your technician will apply a basecoat that most suits your nail type, followed by the color enamel or lacquer of two coats then a final topcoat. That is standard procedure.

     If you see other or more steps during the process they are not incorrect and are generally at the discretion of the manicurist. Additional steps are not wrong nor unconventional and you'll find, if you go to many different nail techs, that they all have their own style and unique way of doing just about every step of their manicures.

     What you will learn about your nails and hands with continued visits to professionals is valuable and if the technicians are informative you'll eventually know what to throw away and what to keep from your experiences within a month of regular care. Manicures should be done once a week for maximum effect. By keeping your manicures consistent you can track your progress easier. If you get involved in the maintenance you may find that you are one of the lucky people who can go every two weeks. More power to you !

Today's manicures are product contingent more than ever before but I would take that idea to task, to be honest. More now than ever, the professional tech in question has more to do with your success with manicures than the products she uses. Her level of expertise and technique will determine whether your nails are filed correctly, conditioned right, cleaned properly and polished well. Each step should be done correctly according to the proper application of the different products and there are many professional products- quite a few you have probably never heard about or seen. For me, it's a plus that there really is nothing new under the sun even though new companies and new products spring up every year. I am familiar with all the products that are used today because of many years of keeping up with the professional trade magazines and trying almost every product on the professional market. With the training plus trial and error that goes with learning each medium and each medium's line of professional products I have kept my finger on the pulse of one of the most prosperous industries in the world.  

    

Until next time,

  

The Castle Lady

    

              My next subject will be on professional pedicures standard procedure. 

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