Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Internet DIY vs The Professional Manicure



     I’m starting to become alarmed at the ridiculous and downright conning that is going on in so-called amateur video tutorials, professional-looking web sites that claim to teach people how to do their own nails for $49 (without creds to teach, of course !), DIY nail product selling with dubious tools and products and all types of chicanery in the amateur manicure and nails industry. I cannot emphasize enough that any article, web site, video, T.V. or internet merchandizing that tells you that you can do your own nails with the same knowledge and skill and as good as (or better than) a licensed professional is just a scam to take your money and run.

     The internet videos go on and on with their free advice and clumsy demonstrations (on their own hands, invariably) and impart more misinformation than I have ever read in magazine articles! The other night I watched a video by someone who calls herself a nails enthusiast. She’d taken her acrylics off which she claims has been professionally done for a decade. Taking it upon herself to remove them caused obvious damage to her nails in addition to the damage that the so-called professional did by using a drill on her- and showed how she ‘got her nails back to health’ by rubbing garlic on the ends of her fingers, later digging her fingers into lemons cut in half, etc. Her claims for each one of these was about as far-fetched as any old wives’ tale remedies and it goes on so long that I realized she took months making this long, drawn-out video to the point that I started to think that watching paint dry might be more interesting ! ! OY-VAY ! Not a bit of this video was in any way professional advice nor did it show me anything to prove her point. As a matter of fact it was sheer torture listening to and watching this enthusiast  bungle around with her nails for no less than a half hour. Let me set the record straight right now. Garlic will not make your nails grow faster. Lemons will not whiten your nails but they will make them extremely brittle over a period of time. Professionals use nail white paste or pencils. French manicures are done with a temporary enamel or gel finish.
     I have been doing nails now for forty-one years and when someone sits down at my table I educate them about why I do certain manipulations, use products and tools a certain way and how to go about home maintenance should it ever be necessary. The latter I mentioned is a very rare incidence since I urge my clients to come for regular care if they want to keep up the look I have achieved for them. I don’t know why anyone would think that because they had their nails done by someone for years that they can ‘figure it all out for themselves’ from now on; Perhaps even thinking that they can teach someone else how to manicure or put on acrylic with info that is over their heads is nonsense. Once someone goes to a professional tech- licensed or not- they would know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that they could not match the expertise of the work just by messing around with their home remedies or products which can be bought in a Consumer Beauty Supply Store. (Most professionals will not use any product which shows up in a Consumer Beauty Supply for a good reason. Professional Supply Houses drop any product which shows up, under license, in a Consumer Beauty Supply, also, by the way.) I do not recommend that anyone ever go to a non-licensed professional nail tech. The sanitation/ cross-contamination risk is one factor but the damage from incorrect overuse of drills is another reason I would advise potential patrons to avoid them. Another reason is that many of these non-licensed professionals can’t do a simple manicure on hands. They haven’t the expertise or the proper equipment.
  



( cuticle knives sold on internet )
  

     Manicure implements are being sold on the internet which have been banned by the State Boards or have gone out of use by professionals because they have been phased out or proven unsafe or ineffective. One such implement is the cuticle knife (pictured above) which is referred to in consumer-directed ads, sometimes, as dual-ended cuticle trimmers. These implements are not used or recommended by professionals or cosmetology schools. I believed they were banned until I saw them all over the internet to be purchased by consumers recently. I have seen the damage, personally, caused by these horrific-looking implements and it takes a long time to get cuticles to behave and look normal after someone has used them. There is no correct way to use these implements to avoid the damage they do. The actual blade cannot be controlled- it is a non-movable part- and is nearly impossible to use without overcutting. Incidentally, I believe these may be a copy of a surgical tool once used by podiatrists to remove hangnails and agnails (toes) before they cause ingrown toenails. I saw two videos on the internet of amateurs showing how they use these unsafe implements to trim cuticles and loose skin and the videos looked edited.

     Any cutting of loose skin around the cuticle line or the actual cuticle is removed by a professional with a cuticle nipper. If you look close we all have different-looking nippers which would give a consumer the wrong impression. There are two features however which are invariable and make our training a bit easier. These are the two blades that meet and curved handles which fit the hand for complete control. I have watched consumers use these implements which can be bought in any drugstore. A professional could use these, technically, and would probably do a superior job. Consumers use nippers like they are plucking their eyebrows ! A huge no-no. This only causes a worse problem than they started out with and the damage is painful to watch. If you care about your health at all don’t use these implements unless you can get a nail tech or professional to show you how to use it correctly.

     Curved end toenail clippers have made a comeback in mail order and I can tell you what’s wrong with them if you’ll hear me out. Toenails should only be cut straight across in order to prevent ingrown toenails. If you cut the side of the nail with a curved blade you will most certainly get ingrown toenails. It happened to me when I was very young and it took a podiatrist doing the almost unthinkable in order to straighten the problem out. Only soaking the nails in sanitized, soapy warm water to soften the nails will prevent reoccurrences. Therefore you would never want to use a curved blade on your toenails- only a straight, flat blade. The ads are made to appear as if it’s easier to use these implements but the damage you’ll inevitably do with them will be difficult and time-consuming to correct by a doctor or professional.
     Two ads for fungus cures showed up in coupon inserts, recently, in my newspaper so no matter where you live in the states you’ll see these ads. It looks like the manufacturers finally did their homework but the consumer should read everything well. Fungicure claims to kill 6 types of fungus but doesn’t say what these types are or how to detect them. I suppose some information is on the inside of the package but if you want to save yourself some money my advice is to get in contact with the company at www.fungicure.com and ask them every question you can think of and find out how the product works. Lamisil cream was directly opposite that ad and I know personally that it’s highly effective on athlete’s foot only. The way the ad looks, one may be having diabetic pains and think they have fungus! In very fine print the ad tells you that their triple action formula is for treating athlete’s foot where it’s the most difficult to get rid of- between the toes! A longstanding client of mine had a case that wouldn’t go away and she periodically showed me the progress of its use over a period of time and we were both pleased with the outcome. Both of these products must be used exactly as directed and no other way.

     Some people believe that they should only go to a podiatrist with all their foot needs but I know for a fact that many podiatrists send people to professional pedicurists to get normal foot care. They don’t bother with such- beyond showing people how they should cut their toenails. The first reason is that they don’t have time to sit and do an actual pedicure on patients. Even they concede that the patient is better off going to a professionally licensed pedicurist than relying on them for such a time-consuming task. Many of their patients have serious problems and they prefer to work at what they were educated to do. 
    
One more thing... would you let anyone hook this thing up to your big toe? Didn't think so. OY OY OY ! It looks like some sort of torture device. NOT !

     

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Magazine Misinformation



     Today I want to tackle the issue of how you should dissect the misconceptions and downright deceptive information which is published in all sorts of periodicals and magazines about manicures. I recently retrieved a full page article I found in the November 2013 issue of Prevention Magazine titled, “Your Healthy Manicure How-To”. The following is the article verbatim:
Avoid salon chemicals (and potential infections) with these five simple at-home steps
1. File your nails Hold an emery board parallel to your nail’s edge. File across, then round out the corners.
2. Soften your skin Microwave a bowl of lotion for 10 seconds, then soak your fingers in it for 60 seconds.
3. Care for cuticles Don’t trim cuticles; they protect nails from infection. Gently push them back with a damp cloth.
4. Smooth ridges  Run a nail buffer, like OPI Brilliance Block ($6; ulta.com), back and forth across your nails to smooth vertical lines.
5. Polish  Polish fortifies the nail. Try peptide-infused toxin-free Dermelect ME in Sophisticate ($14; dermelect.com).

   It further states, on a side bar, to reconsider your polish remover by advising you to try a nourishing one like A Beautiful Life Soy Polish Remover ($20; abeautifullife.com), stating that the acetone is replaced by soy!

*

    Most of this article is not only in error, a large amount of it is even dangerous advice and naïve, at the least. The first premise which is completely false is that you will be avoiding potential infections without proper sanitation and educated precaution. None of the info in this article alerts you to this fact and given the likelihood that readers of this magazine consider it to be backed by medical professionals- the premise is totally inexcusable.
     No less than three sources were listed for the support of this article. They are Zoe Draelos, MD from Duke University; Richard Scher, MD, Weill Cornell Medical College and last, but not least, Donna Perillo from Sweet Lily Natural Nail Spa. The latter source could’ve lent a credible and experienced source were it not for the fact that many nail spas are not regulated by Barber/Cosmetology Boards nor any other licensing board at present. In fact, the words ‘nail’ in conjunction with ‘spa’ may be an indication that the nail technicians hired may not be professionally licensed personally. State boards across almost all states in the U.S. require a person’s license to be displayed prominently in or above their stations. To know for sure, look for them and if you don’t see credentials that match your techs name with the official state logo on it then most likely you are not safe from potential infections. Look to see if implements to be used are actively soaking in disinfectant solution. Is the table clean? Both manicurist and patron must wash their hands prior to the service. These are just some of the precautions.
     Assuming that you still want to try to work on yourself, re-read the five steps above and I’ll tell you why they’re wrong and written by someone who did not speak with a licensed professional at all- leave alone two doctors. Emery boards cannot be sanitized and therefore are potential hazards. Licensed professionals use materials kinder to the nails than a standard emery board and most of these filing implements can be sanitized. Microwaving a bowl of any lotion you have available will create a disastrous effect. Professionals use preparations specifically formulated to emulsify when they are heated and they have apparatuses which will heat the hot oil nail soak to a proper temperature which can be controlled.
      Licensed professionals can trim your cuticles and generally do if anything is extraneous and a potential to worsen if the cuticles are unkempt or forward growth needs to be cleaned off of the nail plate. Cuticles unattended need softening and to be trimmed where they are loose or jagged. This is our job and is best left to us because we were trained how to deal with these issues with our specific implements. It is our raison d’etre. Compris ? If you must do this yourself, wash your hands thoroughly being sure to wet the hands thoroughly for five minutes in warm water. When you dry your hands just gently push back on the cuticle lines with a towel and then leave them alone.
    
The rest of the article starts pushing products which are generally only used by professionals! This article is suggesting that perhaps it might be a good idea to use products that you have not been educated to use correctly- and then tells you the wrong way to use them- to the tune of no less than $40. I’m fairly certain that a manicure of this caliber in a licensed salon would not set you back that far in cash and you’ll rest assured knowing that this person most likely knows how to use them correctly.
     The OPI Brilliance Block is intended for finishing artificial nails- not to try to excoriate ridges on a natural nail. What may initially feel smoother to you will eventually start cracking right along those ridges or lines because you have removed the top tissue which fuses the nail together as a layered unit- being as how your nail is actually epithelial tissue- (horny tissue)!
  
   Regular polish is a fortifier for nails-true! But a peptide-infused version without the so-called toxic three (dibutyl pthylate, formaldehyde, toluene) will most likely bubble after a manicure done with heated lotion. I doubt that anyone is going to like spending $14 on a bottle of polish only to have it look like they have some weird nail disease. I’ll be brutally honest here and tell you that probably an old polish you have on your vanity table would do just fine and won’t hurt you a bit. Here’s another hot flash! I haven’t a clue how soy could be formulated to take polish off ! Whatever they’d have to do to the soy I’m sure it wouldn’t work or if it did you may not want it to. So much for avoiding salon chemicals. It might be worth it to try taking off that insidious gel polish that chips but won't come off. In that case, it would be worse than ketone from which acetone is a diluted version- right!

Just setting the record straight !

The Castle Lady

Saturday, December 30, 2017

Shop Smart, Shop Small



      It’s possible that you have seen the ads on T.V. and in print about shopping at local businesses, start-ups and Mom & Pop stores and have changed the usual way of doing business- you know, looking stuff up on Amazon or E-Bay for the cheapest price on over-advertised products. Old habits die hard so I’m writing a bit tongue-in-cheek but very serious about this new and important trend. My thoughts are along the order of the salvation of the American economy. It’s not just about shopping for products made in America- although that’s also important don’t get me wrong! It’s just as important that we recognize and shop smaller businesses because that’s where the lifeblood of our economy and getting back on our financial feet is truly going to happen. Statistics show that for every $100 spent at local small businesses, $68 of that amount returns or stays within the community. This means that small business owners are also supporting local, small businesses! That is a true win/win situation that is guaranteed to help us restructure and keep our communities strong financially.

     If you shop at or work for big business operations and national megastores this may come as a shock to you but that business may not sell items made in America and therefore doesn’t support the local economy. The revenue from the items sold will most likely support only the corporate headquarters locality or somewhere other than your own community. These stores are the reason that the buzzword ‘global’ has taken on a life of its own. Going global doesn’t necessarily mean we are buying products that are outsourced but too often they are where big business is concerned and they wouldn’t be able to offer you the discounts they give without outsourcing.

      Independent small businesses take on many forms in the shape of non-mall music stores, shoe shops or repair, florists, independent bookstores, upstart coffee shops, resell fashion and small beauty salons. Size isn’t our only difference. We get our products from producers and industry that make these supplies in small batches or by hand, often, with obviously better quality. We make up for size with quality, care and a personal touch that cannot be replaced with speed, discounting or large quantity supplies. Innovative ideas and techniques more often start as a small business than in a big box test lab.

      I am a person who loves to buy blank books in which I hand write my diaries and journals. I like to buy handmade blank books when I can. One time I found some beautifully handmade blank books at a renaissance fair in Larkspur, CO and practically bought the proprietress completely out. Each one is unique and I’ve never seen any others remotely like them. Believe it or not I’ve filled every one of those books long since. (I’ve been journaling since I was a pre-teen.) You should have seen this woman. I’m sure that was a happy dance in the back of the stall. Other manufactured books I’ve written in are falling apart and hers are still nearly indestructible after all these years. This is just one illustration but I think I’ve made my point.

      The way we shop or receive services can either make a difference as I’ve stated above or contribute to an economy that no longer supports us. American Express has dedicated a web site to this shopping phenomenon in hopes that it can aid not just the economy but the backbone of all business in our country and around the world. Even the wealthiest of our country, if we trace back their history, started out with modest businesses. Hard work and dedication plus some very smart business strategy made them what they are today- employers on a grand scale.

     For this Christmas season I encourage you to get out there and look for those shops that may be on a wing and a prayer today but may eventually support half your town because you gave them the opportunity over big box. You’ll also sleep better knowing that you are helping your own community. That’s worth it right there.  



Keep Calm and Shop Local !
The Castle Lady

Monday, November 27, 2017

Can Nail Grooming be Considered Repulsive Behavior?




      Back in 2009 when I was perusing Global Traveler magazine online I found a blog entry by the vice president and associate publisher of the magazine, Alex Young, and it really made me think about public behavior of women when it comes to personal grooming.

The following is his blog entry in its entirety:





Pet Peeves
Tuesday, February 12th, 2008
I know we all have them. On a train ride home on the NJ transit, the woman
across from me decided to clip her nails for the world to see and hear. I was
peeved! Granted some may say I have become spoiled traveling in business and
first class, but I am happy to take public transportation to get me where I need
to go. I do it everyday, on the subways, trains etc.. but there are some
behaviors I believe are just not meant for public spaces. Essentially, anything
that should be designated for your bathroom, like nail clipping, should not be
done on a train!
I admit I was so repulsed that I ended up staring in her direction in what must
have seemed like a dirty look. She caught notice of me and gave me a look right
back! I couldn’t believe it. It’s not as if I went into her own home and told
her what to do and not do, but there are some personal items not meant for the
train!
Gum chewing, I have to say, is another. Ever sit next to someone who is chomping
on their gum so loudly you feel like you should be in a pasture with the cows?
Anyway, I consider these to be simple manners, or common courtesy, that do not
seem to catch on to everyone. But what is one to do? Is it the wrong thing to
ask the woman to stop clipping her nails, or tell someone to chew with their
mouth closed? Help me out here people, what would you do?

Here are some additional complaints on You Tube just in case you think it's an isolated incident: 
(Asian woman cutting her nails in public and on a train full of passengers !)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mBlUYEfjLw   




     I came across Alex's article again when I was looking for something else, recently. My initial reaction to this encounter which was not good for Alex, obviously, is still the same. I do think that it was absolutely repulsive behavior to exhibit in public. It’s right up there with picking your nose and spitting when you get right down to it. These acts are too personal to share with strangers and it is meant to be done privately or not at all.

     I’ll go a step further with this particular act. Nail clipping when done incorrectly is downright dangerous. Anyone who has ever been hit with a flying chunk of finger or toe nail clipping can attest to that so it goes all the way to being completely obnoxious and in my estimation should have gotten this woman removed from the train! This is actually antisocial behavior. What this woman did is no less dangerous than smoking on the train or vehemently arguing with someone.

     Being a professional manicurist/nail tech has helped me put this in perspective, knowing the rudiments of personal hand care. I can tell you what I would have done if put in the same situation. First, I would have told her what I do for a living and given her a card. I would have told her that there is a time and a place for everything and that this was not the place for her to clip her nails, put on lipstick or comb her hair. Professionals do these acts under sanitary conditions and take specific precautions when doing their work so everything remains sanitary. If being embarrassed by a licensed pro doesn’t stop someone from committing an antisocial act such as this, then they can only expect people to shun and avoid them when they do.



Enough said.

The Castle Lady

Thursday, August 25, 2016

It's Combined Service Deals Month and Our 50th Anniversary !


Even though we've been in the middle of a big heat wave you don't have to plant yourself in the kiddie pool 'til September in order to get relief! If you're lucky enough to live in Athmar Park or in Denver you can mosey on over to Nails for Life at Mary Jane's Beauty Salon where we're having a 50th anniversary combined service daily deals celebration!
     All you have to do to get in on the deals is call in each day to find out what service will get you a sweet deal at the coolest nail spa in town! A sampling of what you will hear is along the lines of manicure and pedicure combinations for $40 rather the regular prices of $30 for the pedicure and 17.50 for the manicure. Combining services also saves time so it's a definite win/win deal. Perhaps you'd like to get a set of nails and you have a friend who wants to come along and get a manicure. You will be able to use a combined service deal on the day it's offered just by mentioning your friend who may receive a complimentary add-on to her service such as a paraffin treatment! Talk about a sweet deal ! These will change everyday so you must call in as soon as Tuesday to initiate the process. You can leave a message requesting the deal or if it's not what you're expecting that day, you can leave a message with a request for what you need and leave a call back number to get an offer on the next opportunity for the deal you want. Fun, huh ?
     This will start on August 29th and run through the month of September. Days open are Tuesday through Saturday so there will be quite a few deals to grab. Leave a comment if you have an idea for a deal you would like. I'm ready for something fun- this is my birthday month.
 
Be sure to check in everyday !